What’s the new Drake & Morgan like?

The latest addition to the Drake & Morgan empire (others are in swanky Holborn, Liverpool Street and the City), this Pancras Square newcomer is all tryst-friendly leathers, shiny wood surfaces, and a swanky, make-an-entrance emerald staircase.

Oh, and it’s vast. Vast in a way that dwarves other openings in the vicinity. Whether that’s a good thing for Saturday night quality control remains to be seen. But for now, it’s quite lovely – especially on a midweek lunchtime.

Even before you’ve started to munch your way through the menu, the swivel-headed will observe that there’s all sorts of multi-tasking going on inside: a deli stocked with “gourmet” goods, a fully-connected lounge for remote working and series of bookable kitchen ‘pods’ for gatherings, should you feel the urge.

An outdoor terrace, accessorised with cosy blankets and hot water bottles, is also a useful people-watching perch – and dog-friendly, to boot. In fact, my middle-aged Jack Russell received all manner of attention and fuss from the staff on our visit. Which, as everyone n hospitality should appreciate, always works a treat.

It was midday, so we swerved the “cocktail collection”, instead plumping for a decent glass of Beaune. On the cooking front they’ve bagged a Soho House chef: Dave Green is formerly of Dean Street Townhouse, his expertise apparent in the grill, more of which later.

Under drab October clouds – although the square is at least fairly sheltered as outside spaces go – we tucked into a crab fritter starter. Not much to look at, the patties a bit too deep-fried and misshaped, the depth of flavour was in fact a surprise. Light-as-air, chewy and really pleasingly fishy, they packed just the right balance of chilli and sweetcorn, too.

Seared tuna proved a cleansing contrast, its rosy flesh, fired up by ginger and spring onion, juxtaposing the fried crab perfectly. (I always like a non-appetite-busting starter). We also enjoyed the steak tartare, topped by a yolk as vivid as the morning sun, velvety and textural by turns, aided by just a touch of seasoning. Sourdough with a decadent salt-topped cube of butter upped the overall moreishness factor.

Biggest tip? Don’t stray from the grill. I’d bet its four sections – cutely titled “sea, air, land and veggie” – are all equally devilish. Our favourite dish by far was a market special of chargrilled squid, tender, bitter and sweet by turns, its impact heightened by strips of blackened courgette and a creamy aioli. The staff highly recommended the octopus with pimento too; at £9.50 for a main, it felt like that might be the extraordinarily good value secret to order on a return visit.

The only disappointment, then? A wagyu burger, which arrived as grey as the skies rather than rare as requested. Still, blue cheese, a sturdy brioche and tomato chutney chucked in some colour – although I don’t think justice was done to the famously expensive Japanese breed.

Incidentally, prices here are good: small plates average five or six quid, mains mostly hover between £10 and £15, with burgers less and lobster and fillet steak more. A sirloin is a snip at £13.95. Sides were tasty too: glistening buttery spinach, crunchy broccoli and and green beans.

And yet the eating thing is only the half of it. “Bespoke experiences” are the order of the day, apparently, and there’s a calendar of late-night events including pop-ups, supperclubs and clubs.

Let’s just hope all that hectic multi-tasking and space doesn’t detract too much from a really quite impressive grill.