What exactly is it? A reincarnation of the 90s club of the same name, which we’ve written about many times over the years: here, here and here, for example. Originally located in what’s now Coal Drops Yard – the Tom Dixon store to be precise – it’s also a reboot of long running King’s Cross pub The Driver, with the same owners, Billy and Gemma Reilly behind both.
So what goes on there? It has half a dozen floors, including a sweaty basement club, posh cocktail lounge, ground-floor bar and lofty roof terrace. Salvaged items and memorabilia from the original Cross nightclub are displayed across the floors, from an original cigarette vending machine to a fairground Waltzer car seat, which used to be in the Cross chillout garden.
The interior: discuss. Sitting amidst the nostalgia is the first-floor dining room. It’s a pleasingly adult space, all polished marble, brass-top tables and bare brick, as well as relaxing banquettes, velour curtains and mid-century glass chandeliers.
What should I eat? It’s a small plates menu, which come whenever they’re ready. Carnivores must go for the trio of lamb cutlets, juicily medium-rare, with a crust of Dijon mustard and vivid green crushed pistachio. Cod with beurre blanc didn’t hit the same heights: just past opaque, its sauce was a little bland, but an accompanying golden crispy potato pavé was delish, crowned with salmon roe. And an al-dente side of broccoli was topped with crispy chilli, garlic and lemon.
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And the highlights? We enjoyed our two raw dishes, pictured above, best: sliced scallop crudo with orange and grapefruit slivers and pomegranate seeds, and silken beef carpaccio with distinctive Jerusalem artichoke puree and umami-packed anchovy mayo, artichoke crisps a thoughtful extra touch.
And what do I drink? Wines are organic and from small producers – an Austrian Zweigelt (£36) was a pretty delightful match for the variety of dishes. A pre-prandial negroni hit the spot, too.
Verdict: It remains to be seen if this version of The Cross grabs the imagination of Londoners like its predecessor: but either way, it’s a fun spot on a corner of Cally Road far enough away from Granary Square to draw its own crowd with its very 2022-style revamped identity.
Gasholder ate as guests of The Cross.
