1. Mai Sushi
So packed with tourists, businessmen and locals is this simple, bamboo-clad dining room on any given lunchtime that the noise is almost deafening. Adorned with paper fans, Japanese porcelain figurines, and wall art depicting cherry blossom, it feels casually authentic, like walking into a neighbourhood hangout in Osaka.
It’s so diminutive that you’ll probably have to queue – unless you’re dining alone – in which case they can usually squeeze you in. Service is functional and quick, and the turnover fast; it’s not the kind of place you necessarily linger.
However, the reason for the madness of this tiny institution is it’s good. A huge leather-bound menu might seem overwhelming, but there are plenty of unintimidating sushi sets to ease you on your way. If you’re scared of going a la carte, a perfectly adequate salmon and tuna set is £10.50, while a more daring Chef’s Selection (expect a surprise or two) is between £10-12.
I’m utterly hooked on the excellent salmon bento box at £13. It’s great value, and more filling than you’d expect: a delicious miso soup to start, rich in umami flavours, is followed by a generous box of tricks. Three luscious, good-size pieces of sashimi – tuna, salmon and bream – snuggle up alongside pickled veg, a zingy Asian salad and slab of salmon teriyaki, its sauce perfectly balanced between salty and the sweet kick of mirin, better still when easily dunked in a pool of soy and fiery wasabi.
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The bill, with service and tap water, is just south of £15 a head. Open daily, more info, 36-38 Chalton Street NW1
2. Albertini
Locals swear by this institution, which started 11 years ago, when brothers Albert and Tini (geddit?) decided to open back in 2006.
The café had a bit of a spruce-up last year, transforming itself into more of a destination evening restaurant. The result is that the dining rooms feel more spacious, with bare brick walls adding a touch of the contemporary, while bentwood chairs, brass lights and the Grade II-listed building itself all lend a nice splash of history.
On our most recent visit, we realised what a go-to it is for both locals and visitors. The offer may be the usual Italian mix of pizzas, pasta, paninis and ciabattas – but the wide pavement terrace encourages diners to linger and watch the street scene, especially in the summer months.
Service is of the brisk variety so often found in tourist resorts, but once engaged, our waiter was chatty, impressed that we lived down the road, and knew his restaurant before the refurb.
From a thorough list of pizzas a capricciosa had a decent bite in its dough, with quality toppings of ham, mushrooms and artichokes straddling the mozzarella and tomato. Better was the pasta: we rated a silken tagliatelle with sliced Italian sausage, ribbons of courgettes and some killer tartufo – white truffle – with a white wine sauce.
And as for the starters? Calamari with courgettes were light in batter, with a chunky tartare sauce for a bit of a kick, while a slightly underwhelming bruschetta plate comprised of a trio of tomatoes, mushrooms and roasted peppers with mozzarella.
Wine is well-priced for the location, with house from £19: you’ll be ordering another glass of Primitivo before you know it, watching the mesmerising flow of the always busy street. Open daily (except Sun), more info here, 16-20 Chalton Street NW1
3. Cattle & Co
This is an unassuming street, but it’s home,” says owner Bhrij Patel. His father has run what is now Nisa, the local supermarket, for the last 30 years. “We’ve experienced significant changes in the King’s Cross area from the 80s to now,” he says. “But Somers Town is where you still feel a sense of community.”
Why open a new diner on this street in particular? “There are some great restaurants that drew us here who simply love food – Mai Sushi and Albertini’s to mention a couple,” he says. “They’re all family run and focused on delivering great food with no frills. They helped us provide direction in Cattle & Co.”
The main offer is “BBQ, meat and liquor” with a charcoal oven, an imported smoker from America and a six-metre bar. “It’s comfort food and there’s top quality booze to wash it down it with,” he says. “A very stripped back and casual approach: not fancy, not quiet and non-conformist.” Open daily, more info, 3-9 Chalton Street NW1
