It was an invite too good to resist: to sit at a communal table on Kingsland Road and watch a tiny animated chef miraculously appear on the tablecloth before scuttling round the globe cooking up six different plates.
Following a launch in Dubai, Dinner Time Story is an innovative concept that’s been playing out in Shoreditch for a few months – and its multisensorial projector-based show does have to be seen to be believed.
Set along the Silk Road, the meal takes the form of a journey from Marseilles to Arabia, India, the Himalayas and China, using visual technology and storytelling through sights, sounds and tastes.
The “visual mapping” concept and character of what they call “le petit chef” was actually created in the studio of Belgian artist collective Skullmapping back in 2010, by filmmaker Filip Sterckx and founder Antoon Verbeeck. “The 3D effect in our videos is often thought of as a hologram: in fact, it’s a normal projection,” says Sterckx. “We use optical techniques and distortions to produce the illusion of 3D.”
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Whatever the tech, it’s impressive. As is the space itself: with large industrial windows in a warehouse-style setting, you perch at long, dimly-lit tables so be prepared to make a bit of chat with immediate neighbours. It’s a sociable experience.
The Animations
Before the show starts the female host – initially rather gruff as we enter – asks us to open the book in front of us, called Dinner Time Stories, and it’s on this that the tales are each projected. The tiny chef, who mutters in strong French-accented English, bounds on to the page and starts to narrate his life story in high octane fashion, from growing up in the south of France to hitting on the idea of a menu following in Marco Polo’s footsteps.
With each course, the captivating animation varies from sensations of being underwater to flying on a bird (well, he is tiny), experiencing the vivid colour of Indian spices, snow-capped mountains, and a climax of a fire-breathing dragon flying out of the dessert (not desert).
The Food
Over six courses we nibble all manner of bites from six different countries. They are presented imaginatively – in treasure chests, or deep wooden boxes, to add to the playful sense of discovery – and, popped into mouth, are fun homages to classic dishes, from the tiny nicoise tartlet (with seared tuna) to a cauliflower panna cotta and butter Indian chicken on mini poppodom.
The Arabic course is a stand-out: yes, more teeny mouthfuls, but some intricate cooking techniques, including a diminutive lamb tagine croquette in pistachio crumb, smoked aubergine caviar in a filo cup, and a thyme-heavy za’atar bread with a cute corn-fed chicken kebbeh (the only misfire is fridge-cold, damp vine leaves).
The Chinese-themed mains are less remarkable: cod is juicy and opaque, yet its skin is a little slimy, although the accompanying prawn and roasted pak choi are good. Pink slices of duck are better, although as my neighbour Jacinta – who’s familiar with Hong Kong streetfood – points out, to be truly authentic the food should be chopped smaller so it can be eaten with chopsticks. A crème brulee at dessert – complete with that spectacular animated climax – brings us full circle back to France.
The Surprise
The palate cleanser, bang in the middle of the meal, is probably the biggest wow moment. The whole room is told to wait and eat it at the same time: a simple looking sorbet of pink grapefruit and lychee. But a detail in the presentation is highly theatrical. Ker-ching: Instagold!
Cocktails
Created by the team at awesome host venue TT Liquor, we down five libations of differing shapes and sizes. The first is all aniseed flavours, with its blend of gin, pastis, lime, Lillet blanc and herby tarragon; while next up is another gin-based libation, but this time mellowed with spicy honey, floral-tinted verbena tea and mint.
A low-alcohol cobbler has just a dash of vermouth but overpowering notes of pineapple, mango and lime, while a nippy glass of vodka-and-sparkling-wine cuts through the richness of the crème brulee. Red or white vino is served with the mains. But each drink is tiny. So don’t worry about stumbling out: you won’t.
The venue itself
Arrive early to have a wander, or hang about afterwards. Set across three floors, with liquor store, intimate cellar bar historically used as police holding cells, and upstairs dining space, the space could even be downtown NYC.
Our verdict? An immersive evening of hi-tech animated theatre, without which the food itself wouldn’t necessarily dazzle (although the cocktails do).
But as an entire package, it’s a unique two-hour experience for an anniversary – or splash-out date with a mate.
