Named after the Dutch East India Company (which dates back to 1602), this dimly lit bar opposite Camino, hidden away in the Regent’s Quarter, is famous for its barrel-aged cocktails (more of which later). But the new sharing plates menu is worth trying, especially over the summer when you can pick up three dishes for £12 per person (double-check this deal is still on before you order).
Sea bass
While the dishes proved a bit hit and miss, some are very good: this first offering, the fish chargrilled with a hit of sea salt, was improved further by blackened fennel and a pot of rich aioli to dunk the flesh in. Nice.
Beetroot carpaccio
The plates are pretty to look at. And yet this take on the vogueish veg, served on a rectangular glass plate, slightly under-delivered in flavour: thin slices of earthy beetroot, a disc of goat’s cheese, the shrug of too-mild horseradish.
Grilled halibut
Although a petite fillet (understandable as it’s a pricey fish), we lapped up the deeply garlicky sauce, hint of hollandaise, and tumble of samphire and heritage carrots.
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Scottish Blackface lamb chops
The outright winner. Herb-crusted and served pink, these pillowy lollipops tasted just as good as they looked, with a lipsmacking pot of meaty jus to dunk them in. You’ll need at least one plate (which contains two chops) each. Unadorned chargrilled courgette and pepper slices were a decent foil.
Espresso Martini
Sampling the cocktails was a joy. A puntastic ‘Rack Punch’ – containing arak, the potent traditional Arabic distilled spirit – exuded the smooth uplift of cinnamon and clove, with notes of coriander and citrus; while the Raspberry Shrub was made from Pampero Especial, bottled with fresh lemon juice, honey and fresh raspberries and matured for at least a week. The result was a sharp, pleasingly biscuity long finish.
Better still, at least for dessert? VOC’s take an espresso martini: it’s “off menu”, said the very friendly waitress, but for sweet-toothed cocktail lovers it’s nothing less than an intoxicating liquid tiramisu: all sweet, sharp and bitter notes from the Bailey’s, crème de cacao, vodka and Mozart white chocolate vanilla cream liqueur.
