We were sad to hear rumours that this new venture, reviving a café that dates back to the 1960s, and backed by ex-Chiltern Firehouse mentor Nuno Mendes, is closing soon.
The epitome of Clapton’s laidback, low-key Chatsworth Road, there’s an airy 1960s café at the front, a corridor and slim kitchen behind, and an atrium-style bare brick dining room at the back, home to an ice cream factory in the 1960s.
The menu lists four or five starters and mains – and that’s it. A trio of pizzas at upwards of £6.50 should deflect any accusations of exclusivity or snobbery. The food is portioned bigger than you might expect so don’t over order.
A subtle tartare of Dexter beef, wild tarragon, wild fennel and egg yolk is beautifully served on an earthenware plate. Or try crispy artichokes, roasted garlic aioli and pickled radishes, an inventive smaller starter if your appetite isn’t up to the job.
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For a summery main, Atlantic dogfish with anchovy, which winningly combines white and oily fish, is offset by a tempura of green beans and mint.
The tastiest morsel, however? Smoked anchovy and lardo toasts – silken, salty, crunchy and orderable by the plateful.
Let’s hope it’s not, in fact, the end of the road for this promising arrival.
