London Food & Culture

Review: Barzetti Italian Kitchen, St Pancras Station

Need a handy pitstop before the high-speed train to Margate – or Paris?

Freesh pizza before Paris. Barzetti at St Pancras Station. Photo: PR
Freesh pizza before Paris. Barzetti at St Pancras Station. Photo: PR

If you grew up in the eighties or nineties the all-too-familiar Upper Crust kiosks were synonymous with the whole grey railway concourse experience.

Along with the ubiquitous WH Smith (and perhaps a Wimpy, if you were lucky), the options for snacking at stations were very limited indeed. Quite effortlessly the baguette vendors reigned for many years, their simple options like tuna and lettuce appropriately soporific for a long journey.

It’s not news to say that recent years have seen an explosion in station retailing – and an overall more ‘high end’ experience. Nowadays, even the smallest regional platform may house an “artisan” eating option – while St Pancras International and King’s Cross are veritable small cities of choices.

The people behind Upper Crust (and quite a few other travel-related eateries, in fact), in keeping with the times, have just launched a new concept in the confines of St Pancras.


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Barzetti is an unpretentious space, and not in any way trying to keep up with, say, Pizza East. But it’s a handy addition if you’re on a Kent-bound high-speed train to Margate, Deal or Folkestone, as it’s right at the foot of the escalators.

You can, for example, enjoy a Aperol Spritz and a bite before hotfooting it upstairs for the inevitable doze in the carriage. There’s a selection of traditional Italian mains and pizzas with both contemporary and traditional guises, sold either circular or by the half metre, perfect for sharing.

Well-stocked counter of Italian produce at Barzetti, St Pancras.
Well-stocked counter of Italian produce at Barzetti, St Pancras.
A “chef’s recommendation” of bresaola, parmesan and rocket was meaty enough, and greatly enhanced by a drizzle of fruity olive oil, but no more than the sum of its parts. Much better was a vegetarian option of goat’s cheese, fig and red onion – really sticky, sweet and more-ish.

Elsewhere, garlic bread delivered a kick, while a side of balsamic beetroot and red onion was tart, earthy and crunchy; a highlight.

However, the jury was out on the pizza base, at least at our table: a little too “bready”, it seemed engineered to fill punters up, rather than provide a light vehicle for the toppings, as you might hope.

In fact, we preferred our other main to the pizza: a simple chicken salad, its breast cooked sous-vide for buttery tenderness and paired with crispy pancetta, an exploding soft poached egg, creamy dressing and bitter mixed salad leaves.

The drinks list is commendable for a station joint, with half a dozen wines by the glass as well as cocktails, prosecco and craft beer. And the sweet, citrusy notes of our Campanian Falanghina matched the various cheeses, meats and breads of our mains.

If you don’t want a snooze, and need a little caffeine hit after lunch, you’re in luck, as the coffee here packs a hefty punch. A double espresso tasted more robusta than smooth arabica: perfect with a vogueish pizzettina dolce – which is basically a Nutella pizza, one that any anklebiters in tow will go wild for.

The verdict then? Good enough, but Barzetti can’t shake its need to appeal to a mass audience. And it’s way pricier than hip London joints like the excellent Franco Manca, or Pizza Union, the newcomer not five minutes’ walk away on Pentonville Road.

But while Barzetti is by no means a destination outlet, it will undoubtedly soon be found on every major station concourse across the country. In short, it’s all a far cry from a tuna and lettuce baguette.

Barzetti, Unit 20 & 21 The Circle, St Pancras Station. Starters from £3.75, mains and pizza from £9.25.

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