Glistening teetering buns, taller than they are wide, stuffed to the gills with assorted hunks of meat and oozing special sauces: that’s the kind of scandalous food porn the Yeah! Burger guys regularly entice us with online. So, feeling appropriately famished on a sunny Tuesday lunchtime, we paid a visit to their kitchen residency at York Way’s Star of Kings pub.The venue is certainly more of a night-time economy kinda place, where darkness helps smooth the rougher edges and the basement dancefloor comes into its own. In daylight hours, the front terrace – where we sat – is a perfect sun trap, but not a very luxurious one. We ate balanced on a wobbly table as dusty passing trucks occasionally drowned out conversation, but it was better than being confined to the shadows inside.
Out came our tall stacks of burger, every bit as obscene as depicted in their close-up tweets. Signature creation The Yeah was a very decent effort, the beef accented with a heavily char-grilled patty machismo. Eating it was as messy as you’d expect from something with such ludicrous dimensions too, which all adds to the decadence.Chips looked uniform rather than obviously hand-cut in-house, but proved to be faultlessly crisp. A main ‘Eat Your Greens’ salad, featuring chipotle chicken, baby gem, avocado, quinoa and sprouted lentils packed a nice kimchi surprise too. It’s an unusual alternative for those wishing to swerve the mainstay burgers.
Meanwhile, The Pilgrim – a vast turkey jobby, itself groaning under the weight of pastrami, Swiss cheese and some tart pickles – was making a good job of decorating our fingers, faces and shirts with its juicy run-off. It makes for a delicious, if unbecoming dalliance; just chuck aside the pointless distraction of knife or fork. Heck, a spoon might even be more appropriate.
At £7 for the burgers and £5 for the salad, this is a decent streetfood option, with chilled pints of Meantime on hand, if you feel that way inclined (we were in a lime-and-soda frame of mind, alas). With so many rotating vans parked just over the way at KERB, it feels like it will come into its own when the vans have packed away and darkness has fallen, much like the party pub it calls home.