A typical no-bookings joint, candle-lit and industrial, the meat is sourced from Warren’s Butcher in Cornwall; on a specials board they list their underrated cuts like beef belly, onglet, bavette, and chuck centre.
We’ve eaten at both outlets in the West End several times: the signature steak (not much more than a tenner) is always served perfectly pink, as befits its medium-rare fleshiness, and is clean, salty, a touch metallic, a touch gamey. And you can dunk each thinly-sliced piece in béarnaise, all buttery-eggy unctuousness.
But in Soho the tables are small, almost cramped. So let’s see how this new King’s Cross branch fares, opening in a month or two in the former (very good) T.E.D. restaurant on the lower slopes of the Caledonian Road.
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