London Food & Culture

Review: Sourced Market, St Pancras

The station pit stop is now a destination in itself. Well, almost....

Sourced
‘There’s something mesmerizing about lingering with a glass of red, gazing out onto the concourse at the swell of commuters rushing and tutting.’ Photo: Sourced
The thing is, you just don’t expect to have a joyous time at a railway station, do you? Even in this day and age, with the abundance of posh coffee and crafty beer on offer.

St Pancras is the terminus I pass through most regularly, yet, like most people, never feel the need to hang out there more than is necessary (although it’s reassuring that there are good places to hand, if that changes).

The other evening, however, my partner and I found ourselves with 45 mins to spare, after missing a train. Idly, with a shrug, we hit Sourced, which is going through a kind of protracted relaunch.

Remember how it used to look? A very long and thin deli that spanned the length of the departure boards, in situ since just after St Pancras reopened in 2007? Well, now they’ve rethought the space. Clearly a visit to Sourced is now An Experience.


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Sourced counter
You can sit at the counter if you like. Photo: Sourced
This is no bad thing. There’s more emphasis on seating within the outlet at proper counters and tables, with cosy heaters and an appealingly affable atmosphere. Lots on tap too – beers like Beavertown, half a dozen wines – and it’s all competitively priced: the Tottenham brewery’s Neck Oil is just £4 a pint, far cheaper than most joints in the postcode (in some London pubs it’s nearly £6).

The result? We had so much fun we missed two further trains.

Food-wise, as befits a mainline station, with time of the essence, it’s mostly charcuterie and cheese in various guises.

We shared a plate of excellent cured lamb loin, Cornish salami made with seaweed and cider, Suffolk ham, and cornichons, all correctly melt-in-the-mouth and served at room temperature. The cost was a tenner, although we did have to ask for more bread, as it came with barely a morsel.

There are all manner of sarnies and toasts too, such as black olive bruschetta, and a spicy n’duja with garlic; but most rated is a delicious smashed avocado with goat’s cheese and rose harissa piled high on sourdough. It should be good for £8 – and it was.

Best of all, there’s something mesmerizing about lingering with a glass of red, gazing out onto the concourse at the swell of commuters rushing and tutting.

It certainly made us wonder why we don’t all just slow down a bit – whether or not indeed we have a train to catch.

On a wine crawl? Try DesVins too

Tres Francais: Des Vins. Photo: PR
Tres Francais: Des Vins. Photo: PR
While Sourced feels very much the archetypal London craft thing, just across the way is a far more Francophile experience. As well as the Parisian café-style food (yup, Croque Monsieurs are a speciality) the main draw is that DesVins curate just seven types of French wine by the glass (from 125ml to a carafe or bottle) at good prices because, as they chirrup, “your time is precious”. So for a fiver you can guzzle a decent Clos De Vieux Marroniers Beaujolais, for example. Downside? Service can be awfully leisurely. Oops. Unit 12a, St Pancras Station open until 10pm/ weekends 11pm daily.

Sourced Market is open daily at St Pancras International until about 9pm.


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